Let's make it bigger

You are tired of this SOMETHING enlargment programm every day comming to your email? I'm too. Especially, because I know how to make an organ bigger without a chemicals. It is easy then ever, you just need one tool: Photoshop!


Give Someone A Big Nose

Using that free video guide you will know how to quickly and easily give someone a big nose using Adobe Photoshop. Wish you luck, in your enlargement experiments!

Matrix Style Photos

Ok, I've not been writting for number of month, due some problems with my wife. She got in a car accident in end of summer, and only few days ago returned back from a hospital. So, I haven't got a spare minute to look through new style changing technologies.
But now I'm back, and I'm bad! I missed writting so much, so today I present you a perfect guide to creating matrix-like photos


CREATING MATRIX STYLE PHOTOS! - The most amazing videos are a click away

Bachelor work is done!

Hello friends!
Sorry for long pause, but there were some problems with my bachelor work. But now it gone, I passed all exams and was graduated to a Bachelor of Computer Science. Now, I got more time to write and spend time blogging. I've even purchased myself a new monitor, which is 22" wide, but about this I will write next time, but now, I want to publish about a technology which helped me in my studies lot.
Browsing Internet I've found a flash cards site. At a first glance there was nothing special, but than I realized that this is a way to get a quick and easy visual aid. I've used this type of visual aid some years ago, when I was playing Dragons-and-Dungeons game. And you know what? I still cannot through away two hundreds of cleric spells out of my mind.
I navigate to the site i've mentioned before, and found that these guys offer a great service: There are tons of editable flashcards and new cards are comming, because cards are created by community. But what to do if you meet a trouble I've encountered: there are no flash cards on your theme. There is no problem at all: just create your own flash cards set, and give a community an opportunity to edit it. Mistakes you made will quickly be corrected and you get an exclusively great flash cards set.
The site is build using Web 2.0 fashion trends, so you can easy find everything you need, because most of content is "tagged" - marked with some theme related keywords. It offers a great opportunity for students to get nessesary information, for teachers to quickly prepare the visual aids. You share your experience with a whole world, using Flash Cards database.
To start your friendship with a cards, take an interactive tour on all features.
So, if you want to get an advantage learning something you always can use ProProfs Flash Cards service as a key to great self-teaching technique.

Changing Photos in Photoshop

Have you ever thinked why the Hollywood stars always seems so perfect in the magazine photographs? Why is it they always look so perfect? Their haircut, teeth and skin always seem to be perfect and so beautiful. Is this the magic of stardom or Hollywood? No, this isn’t magic. It’s just Photoshop.

Photoshop is the same photo editing software program being used by professionals in the entertainment industry to make movie stars look younger, slimmer and better. They have been doing it for years and now you can achieve the same results with a little training and practice using Photoshop for some of these same photo enhancements.

You can learn to make amazing enhancements to any photograph using the tools and functions available in Photoshop. The following are just a few of the improvements you can make to people pictures.

Whiten stained teeth
Remove unsightly scars
Smooth age wrinkles
Clear up acne
Remove blemishes
Double chin removal
Fill in bald spots by adding hair
Open closed eyes
Remove tattoos
Hide body piercings
Change eye color

With Photoshop you can easily make yourself or anyone look better. You can even change the colors of the clothing people are wearing. You will be amazed by the results you can achieve with Photoshop. You will not only be able to improve the appearance of people but you will be able to completely remove people from the photograph, add people from other photos or change the background.

Master these Photoshop techniques and you will be in demand for photo editing and graphic design projects. People with these types of skills are in needed for photo retouching, web design work, logo design, advertising, and more. Not only can you have fun touching up your own photos but you could start a business doing photo enhancements.

Master The Basics Of Adobe Photoshop In Under 2 Hours With Easy To Follow Online Photoshop Video Tutorials. Full Details Here: http://www.learnphotoshopnow.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Peters

Fujitsu Sales Day on Mother's Day

Just grabbed a letter from Fujitsu, saing that they got some cool things on Mother's Day prepared:

• The first one: Using this code FCS100MOM you can get a 100$ discount on any new system


• You also get free shipping and free webcam, if you register and order something, using this link


• And the last, most beautifull thing: no any payments for 90 days!

So, the photographers and designer, check your accounts and discuss an upgrade question with you wife. The proposal is hot and it's right here!

Free Photoshop Brushes

Every good designer needs an arsenal of brushes to use within photoshop, whether its a grunge effect or some tehno swirls that are required there is sure to be a brush that fits your needs. Here we have dugg out the very best we could find. If there isn’t a suitable brush, we have also included some links on how to create your own.

Foliage Brushes - These brushes are big, and meant for print. You can use them for Web stuff as well, but you might need to size them down. Most of them are around 1800 pixels wide.

VPDesigns Omega Brush Set 200+ - Inside you will find grunge sets, vector/tech sets, cloud brushes, fractals, abstract sets, all in all there are some 200+ brushes within 9 collections.


Worn Photoshop Brushes For High Resolution - If you are new to the brushes that I make, you should know that they are mainly for working with materials meant for print. You can use them for Web stuff as well, but you might need to size them down.

Jenn B’s Hair Brushes - Small yet splendid set of human hair brushes based on her own scanned locks/curls and they look great.

Angryblue - A collection of grunge brushes and bloodspots etc.


Theese are the best for me. Much more you can discover in original page. Feel free to leave any comment you want.

Make photo black n white but keep lips red

Long time since last time posting, but I needed some time to fix my own problems. Today I bring you this great video lesson on Photoshop. The point is preety clear, how to make picture black n white, but keep lips red. Watch now and comment free!

Seven Common Mistakes When Taking Digital Photos

You have probably taken photos before just to find out later that they did not come out as expected. Although digital cameras are getting smarter there are still a lot of decisions that the photographer has to make. There are also many mistakes that the photographer can make. Here are seven common ones.
Many mistakes can ruin a photo. Here is a list of seven common ones. The first step to avoid these is to understand what they are and why they ruin a photo. The second step is to be aware of them when shooting your photos.
Out of focus: An out of focus photo looks blurry and has low contrast. Usually such a photo is useless and can not be corrected. Most digital cameras can automatically set the focus for you and in most cases they choose the right focus for the scene. Some scenes however are harder to focus on and can fool the camera’s auto focus mechanism. If you are using an SLR camera you can make sure that the objects are in focus by looking through the viewfinder. Most cameras sound a short beep when the focus is locked and also display a green rectangle around the area that they focused on. Always make sure that this area is where the objects that you care about are. For example if there are two objects in the scene in different distances from the camera make sure that the camera focused on the object you want.
Blurry photos: Blurry photos are most likely the result of camera shakes. Learn how to hold your camera to minimize shaking: it should be held firmly with two hands and it should “touch” your face. If you are shooting photos using slow shutter speeds you should use a sturdy tripod to prevent shaking. If you can not guarantee that the camera will be stable – for example if you are shooting while you’re moving – set the camera to shutter priority and choose a fast shutter speed (assuming of course that the light conditions allow such setting) – for example setting the shutter speed to anything faster than 1/250 of a second will most likely guarantee a non blurry photo even if the camera shakes a bit.
Underexposed: Photos that are underexposed look dark and lack details. The reason for underexposed photos is setting the exposure too low. Although the camera can measure ambient light and make the exposure decisions for you it can be confused by more complicated scenes. For example if there is a very bright light source in the photo it can confuse the camera to believe that there is enough light in the scene for a low exposure setting. The result will be a photo that captures the bright area but darkens all the others. Usually you can assume that scenes that have extreme lighting gaps between different areas confuse the camera – for example if a quarter of the photo is very bright and the rest is very dark the camera is likely to set the wrong exposure. In such cases you can manually correct the exposure.
Overexposed: Photos that are overexposed have blown out areas and sometimes are completely saturated and white. The reasons for overexposed photos are similar to underexposed ones. The camera makes an exposure decision that is incorrect due to complicated scene conditions. In such scenes you can manually correct the exposure.
Shaded objects: A good example of shaded objects is when taking a portrait photo in daylight. The camera measures enough ambient light to set a low exposure value. Although there is enough ambient light shades can appear on the object depending on the angle of the light source relative to the object. For example if the object’s face is lit from the side the object’s nose can create shades. Or maybe if the object is wearing a hat and is lit from above the hat can create shades on the object’s face. The camera can not automatically correct such shades. By understanding what causes shades you can easily eliminate them by turning on the fill-in flash. Firing the fill-in flash (make sure that the object is within flash range) will remove the shades from the object.
Red eye: This is a very common phenomenon. When taking photos of people or animals using a flash in a dark environment the eyes have some red glow in them. There are a few things that you can do to prevent red-eyes: some cameras support a “red eye reduction” mode. In that mode the camera fires the flash a few times before taking the photo. Although this can help reducing red-eye it can also result in photos of people with their eyes closed (as they are blinded by the pre-flash their reflex is to close their eyes). Other ways to prevent red-eye is to use bounce flash (you can do that with special equipment or for example by pointing the flash to a white wall) and using more ambient light if possible (for example by turning on all the lights in the room). Some cameras include built-in image processing software that automatically removes red-eye from the photos or alternatively you can use many software packages on your home computer to accomplish the same.
Dark Silhouettes: When taking photos with a bright light source behind the object (for example when the sun is behind the object) the result will be a silhouette of the object. One example is taking a photo of someone on the beach against a sunset. The result will be a dark silhouette of the person with a good photo of the sunset background. This problem can be solved using a fill-in flash. The fill-in flash lights the object making sure that it is captured with all its details. Simply remember to use a fill-in flash when taking pictures of objects with a bright light source behind them. One limitation is that the objects must be within the flash range – otherwise the flash is useless and they will appear as silhouettes in the photo.

By: ziv haparnas

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Lenses to choise

The speach of the photographer is very curious, cause usually professionals use the different words about lenses and other digital equipment. So, I created a simple guide to professional lenses names.

Normal Lens - This lens will give you the angle of view that you normally see with the naked eye. A lens about 50 mm (Pentax 43 or Helios 56) on a 35mm camera is considered a normal lens. Remember the digital cameras have sensor smaller than 35mm (since you haven't got Mark I or EOS 5D, than why you're reading this). For Canon you need to multiply focal length on lens to get a real number by 1.6; Nikon/Minolta/Sony/Pentax and other x1.5; Olympus x2.

Wide Angle Lens - Good for landscapes, as well as big buildings, they also add foreground to your photograph. For a standart film camera, anything smaller than 38mm would be considered a wide angle. Best choice is a 24mm to 28mm. But sometimes you may need a wider angle.

Portrait Lens - Created specially for portraits, can be a good choise shooting naturemort. Anything between 75 and 150 mm focal length are considered for portrait lenses.

Telephoto Lens - These come in a variety of lengths, starting at 150mm and going up to 500mm. They are useful when you need to bring the subject closer, f.e. shooting car race or flying birds. For most purposes a 150mm or 200mm lens is recommended. The longer focal lengths are used for wildlife and sports photography where you must stay a long distance from your subject. Be sure to use a tripod and a fast shutter speed, if you are shooting with an extremely long lens.

Zoom Lens - Because they offer a range of focal lengths, these lenses are perfect for travel photography. They are very useful in isolating specific elements within your photographs. Zoom lenses cover a variety of focal lengths. Most common are a wide angle to a medium, such as a 28mm-80mm lens. Or a medium to a long, such as a 70mm-210mm lens.

Macro Lens - Macros come in a variety of fixed focal lengths or as a zoom lens with macro capability. This is a great lens to use when shooting close-ups of insects, flowers, or other small objects.

New Look: Transform to Black & White

With digital photography, it's easy to transform a photo you've taken to black and white. Some cameras even have this ability inside. But what to do if we need both identical pictures: black & white and colorful photo. There is a solution, we need to Transform Colorful Photograph to Black and White Picture! Why so, but not a vice a versa? It is a simple answer: it is easier to lose something (colors), than to give something (colors).

There are different ways for this transformation, so I offer you the one I especially liked. This tutorial video is specially created to demonstrate how easy can transform to black & white photo can be.

Glamour Photography Secrets

What is the glamour photography? How to differ the glamour photography from simple human portrait?

Glamour photography is the photographing of a model to emphasize the subject, instead of the fashions or products endorsed.

Standards of glamour photography have changed over time, reflecting changes in social morals. For example, in the early 1920s, USA photographers like Ruth Harriet Louise photographed celebrities to glamourise their stature. During World War II pin-up pictures of scantily clad movie stars were extremely popular among US servicemen. However, until the 1950s, the use of glamour photography in advertising or men’s magazines was highly controversial or even illegal. Magazines featuring glamour photography were usually marketed as "art magazines” or “health magazines”.

Photographers all over the world use special techniques for taking this kind of photos. The light and soft-focus lens are the main points. With Rembrandt Lighting, key light placement determines the modeling (shadowing) on your subject. As described above, placing this light at 45 degrees between camera and subject and about 45 degrees above subject eye level, will give you what is termed Rembrandt Lighting. This is perhaps the most popular type of portrait and glamour lighting. The key light will cast a shadow from the nose that falls down across the face, joining with the shadowed side of the face, leaving a “triangle” of light on the cheekbone. The nose shadow should not fall below the mouth line for best effect. You can make a face thinner by shooting the shadowed side (called short lighting) or more full by shooting the side lit by the key light (called broad lighting). In boudoir portraiture and glamour photographs we often want a soft focus look to add a romantic look to the photos or to conceal skin blemishes. Traditionally, this was done by putting various soft focus filters on front of the lens. There are two problems with this approach. First, you are then having to focus the camera through the soft focus lens which can be hard at times. Secondly, you are stuck with the amount of soft focus that the combination of lens, lens aperture, and filter provide.

Usually, this kind of photography is used by the "glossy magazines". So, if you can make it, than why don't to try? There are plenty of photo galleries to fill up with your glamour photos :-) And it doesn't matter that we leave the soft focus filters at home and use Photoshop to add the effect later, which allows us to add just the right amount of soft focus effect that we need.



 

Let's Remove Wrinkles

This tutorial shows how to remove wrinkles from a photo in just few easy steps, using Photoshop.



If you use other technique for removing wrinkles (I know some people do), feel free to leave a comment, so I can include it in the post.

General Tips on Shooting Babes in Night Club

Nightclub photography generally falls into one of two camps: moody, atmospheric shots featuring plenty of smoke and lasers or montages of drugged-up punters raving their tits off. No matter which will you choose, you need to remember some next rules:

1. First thing is to get permissions from the management, and the band's manager. If you don't you and your camera can be busted on the hard road. And there will be no possibility to shot anything until you get yourself another camera.


2. Taking shots in nightclubs or bars you are limited, of course, by the light available. The flash on typical Point-N-Shot camera, like Canon PowerShot or Nikon Coolpix is probably only going to be good at distances under about 10 feet. So under 10 feet and you can use the flash. So, get closer to an object you shot


3. If you can't get so close to a scene, you need to steady the camera in the low light. A tripod would be best, but not very mobile or easy to carry on the dance floor. A monopod would be the next likely choice, but most bouncers are not to happy about you bringing in that kind of stuff.


4. If you use SLR camera (I hope you do), use the fastest glass (lens) you can. As I used 2.0f-2.8f lenses, it's is dark enough to take good quality shots, but I think something in 1.2f-1.8f will be enough.


5. If you don't have a spot meter, get one because, as I have discovered, exposure is very difficult. Ideally, it would be a TTL (Through The Lens) meter in the camera.

And of course, don't forget to take an emails from the babes you shot. This can be start for a good long-lasting partnership :-)

Take a Shot: Night City Lights

This article brings you some advices, how to make good night city photo.

Shooting a cityscape during day isn’t the same thing shooting the same scene at night. Building lights, neon glow signs, lights from passing cars and street lamps – all this can create magical scenes. But this scenes are always high contrast scenes and this aspect requires certain shooting techniques.

Take a look at your city at night. These tips and techniques will help you to capture not only the scene you see in your camera’s viewfinder, but also the exciting feeling of the original experience. After all, if a photo conveys a feeling or an emotion, it’s a successful picture.

If you shoot film, I recommend using daylight-balanced film. For after-sunset shots with my digital camera, I set my ISO to 400 and use a tripod to steady my camera during long exposures. To determine the correct exposure, I set my camera to. I often use Exposure Compensation set to –1 – 1,5 because the dark areas of a scene can fool a camera’s exposure meter into “thinking” that the scene is actually darker than it actually is – resulting in the bright lights being overexposed.

High-end digital cameras have a noise reduction feature that removes some of the grain associated with long shutter speeds on digital cameras. (Noise in a digital image isn’t equivalent to grain in a film picture.)

When I plan on taking nighttime pictures in a city, I scope out the city during the day for scenes that may make nice nighttime scenes. Spending some time during the day helps me become familiar with the city. It also lets me pick safe shooting locations such as curbs or traffic islands in roadways.

I’d like to add an important safety note here: Follow your mother’s advice. Always wear white at night. You want passing cars, bicycles, and skateboarders and so on to see you when you are shooting.

A good time to take nighttime pictures is actually not at night. If you shoot shortly after the sun sets, you’ll get some skylight in your pictures. Skylight does two things. One, it softly illuminates the buildings so you don’t have just bright lights in your pictures. Two, it adds a soft glow to the sky so you don’t have a totally black sky in your pictures, as is the case when you shoot well after night fall
Notice that there are no white lights in the picture – which would have been created by cars heading toward the camera. That is no accident. I usually wait until no cars are coming toward me – because I only wanted red lights in the scene.

Speaking of streaking, look at how the bright red and yellow lights in your scene stop (or start) in the middle of the scene. It looks rather strange, don’t you think? My point: for successful streaking photos, most of the lights should streak through the entire frame. Again, to get that kind of result, you need to have patience, to take a lot of pictures – and to watch the lights.

So the next time you are in a city, remember: Nighttime is the right time for fun – and creative – pictures. And, please remember to wear white at night to be safe!

This article is compilation of Rick Sammon guide to a night photography published at
Adorama's catalog.

P.S. But what to do, if it's rainy outdoors? Just take a good camera bag and drive in the club. There you always can find awesome babes which will be posing for you for free. How to shot them in action is the next material, I'm gonna compilate.

Kazy - Choke

As I've browse for more stream videos with good photoshop tutorials and cool articles on photography tips and tricks, I've found this one cool track on an awesome serviss. Listen and feel free to tell in comments, what do you think.

Taking Photos Outdoor: On Travel or Vacations

Honestly ask yourself a question: "Do my friends really want to look at my vacation photographs?"
No one travels without a camera, and some take more than one with, and the urge to document a vacation usually results in hundreds of photographs, but for friends and family members, looking at all of these pictures has all the appeal of jury duty. If you getting tired of your friends on a holiday it’s easy to put up a white screen, telling: “And now we’ll look for a photos I’ve taken in Prague, not all, but only best twenty dozens of them”.
Peter Guttman is a New York-based travel photographer who takes pictures that people not only want to look at, but will also pay to own. He has traveled to more than 190 countries, is the author of three books on travel and has had numerous gallery shows, including a recent one at Sotheby’s, and in 2000 he was named the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalist of the Year by the Society of American Travel Writers. In 1986 he held an end-of-the-year slide show as a way to keep friends up-to-date on where his travels had taken him.

As I research down the Internet there’s the tips I’ve found:

Determine the time you will have available for photography. Staying in one location for two weeks will provide different types of opportunities than when traveling through six European countries in ten days. Remember that others in your group may be affected by your schedule. Don't delay the adventures of your travel companions by chasing butterflies around a meadow for two hours. Good photographs take a considerable amount of time to capture. Time is needed to learn about a location and understand where and when the best photograph opportunities exist. It takes additional time to return to a location, set up, and wait for the proper conditions. Also, remember that the light will vary throughout the day. How does this fit into your itinerary? For example, if you want to photograph a city skyline while facing east, you will need to be there in the evening to capture the necessary light.
Carry your equipment with you as much as possible! Experienced photographers know this is a good idea at all times. When an opportunity arises, you will immediately be able to take advantage of it. This is also the best way to ensure that you acquire a complete collection of snapshots as any unexpected, interesting moments can quickly be recorded.
Stock up on film or memory cards before you leave home. Film is expensive in touristy areas, and the type of film you desire may not be available. This will also save you time during your trip and ensure you do not run out at an inconvenient time. When traveling, many photographers are concerned about the effect of airport x-rays on their film. However, documented cases of damage caused by airport x-rays are relatively rare. There is usually no reason to be concerned about film with a speed of 400 or slower. Some newer types of x-ray equipment used in modern international airports are stronger and do pose a higher risk. The equipment used to scan checked baggage is especially strong, so keep your film with you in a carry-on bag. To be safe, ask the attendant to hand check your film, although many airports insist all film undergo machine scanning. The effect of the x-rays is cumulative, so take extra precautions if film will be scanned repeatedly. Remember that your external hard drive can be any moment out of batteries, so keep a medium-sized CF or SD card to replace yours quickly.
Take many photographs at your destination. Try different angles, different compositions, different lighting. Don't photograph only the typical subjects. Take photographs of unique hotels you stayed in, meals you ate, and people you met. These often tell a story and bring back memories better than photographs of famous sites. Film is relatively inexpensive. You don't want to return from your trip regretting the ones you didn't take. You may not be able to return for quite some time.
Safety is important. In a city or other tourist area, carry your equipment as inconspicuously as possible. An ordinary looking backpack works well and is also a great place to pack small quantities of food, water, clothing, and travel guides. Some photographers even put black tape over the brand names on their equipment. However, in most areas, a direct robbery is very rare. Instead, bags are often stolen from distracted or careless travelers. For example, do not let others see your equipment just before locking it in your automobile or leaving your baggage somewhere.
Finally, at the end of your trip, take time to organize your photographs. Document dates, places, and people before you forget. It helps to write notes as you are taking photographs, rather than relying completely on memory. Use archival quality materials when storing prints or slides. For something different, prepare a travel scrapbook and mix photographs with brochures, tickets, receipts, and other souvenirs.

Stencil Graffiti Guide

Melbourne is the proud capital of street painting with stencils. Its large, colonial-era walls and labyrinth of back alleys drip with graffiti that is more diverse and original than any other city in the world. Well, that was until a few weeks ago, when preparations for the Commonwealth games brought a tidal wave of grey paint, obliterating years of unique and vibrant culture overnight.

This may seem like no great tragedy to readers of the Daily Mail, but Melbourne's graffiti scene is a key factor in its status as the continent's hothouse of creativity and wilful individualism.

Melbourne became a hub of stencilling for reasons no one seems particularly able to explain. Its laid-back atmosphere and sense of isolation most probably have something to do with it. Painters there have never been as shackled to the New York school of large letters on subway trains that took a stranglehold everywhere else. Rather than scrawling their name across a window, most preferred to paint something a little different: a dog chasing a butterfly on a mailbox, for instance, or a couple kissing in the space left where an old poster has been ripped away.

More info on stencil graffiti in Melbourne you can find in guardian's article.

Quick Sketch Creating Tutorial

Do you know, how to quickly create photo sketch using photoshop. Usually it take me for about one hour to find good propotion of applying whole heap of effects. Do you beleave you can make it without any effects, except Blur?
Watch this movie and greate respect to the author, which created it.

Tutorial Changing Eye Color

This is photoshop tutorial on changing eye color. Made pretty cool and even with Spanish comments. Now I know that post title is translated as "Mudando A Cor Dos Olhos " :-)

Quick Change From Black-n-White to Colorful Photo

We've all seen beautiful hand-colored black and white photographs. A lovely shot of a child with lightly tinted cheeks and an armful of flowers, or a black and white beach with red and blue striped umbrellas. Perhaps you've wondered how it was done. Perhaps you've even assumed only professionals could create such images. The truth is it's actually quite simple once you know how. With the proper tools, anyone can create professional-looking hand-tinted photographs.


To get started, buy some black and white film. It's sold anywhere film is sold. Try Kodak Plus-x or Tri-x Pan. Next, go out and shoot! Landscapes, portraits-anything goes! For beginners, it's best to start with uncluttered photos, free of unnecessary details and distractions. A shot that is light in overall tone will work best.

Marshalls sells a great starter kit that includes 12 tubes of paint and everything else you will need, except the cotton swabs, waxed paper, tape, and pencils. This can be found at larger art supply stores, like Michaels or Aaron Bros.


Now that you have your photos and supplies, you're ready to get started. Find a workspace that is well lit (our dining room table works great!) where you can spread out. Take a piece of waxed paper and tape it down to the table. This will serve as your palette. Next, tape down your photo in front of you (tape underneath rather than on the surface of the photo).


Next, decide what colors to use. Paint larger areas first. Put a very small amount of paint onto the waxed paper. Apply paint lightly to the area you wish to color with a cotton swab. Blend it in well with a cotton ball. If it is darker than you want it to be, keep blending! If it is lighter than you want, apply more paint and keep blending until you have just the right shade.


Now.. have you gone over the lines? No problem! Get out your eraser and erase the edges until the paint is only where you want it to be. Is the color all wrong? No problem! Erase it all with the eraser, or start over completely by putting a little Marlene solution on a cotton ball and taking it off that way.


For smaller areas or finer detail, you have two choices. You can use the colored pencils, or you can use paint by twisting a tiny amount of cotton onto the end of a toothpick and carefully dabbing paint onto the area. This works well for lips and cheeks, and other very small areas.


If you want a truly nostalgic look, don't paint the entire picture. For portraits, you may want to just tint the hair, cheeks, and lips. For a field of flowers, painting just the flowers and not the sky or grass might look just right. Play around with it. Don't be afraid to make mistakes. Remember, you can always start over.


Once your image looks the way you want it to, let it dry for 24 hours before handling or framing. Soon you'll have beautifully hand-colored photos to share with family and friends. They make great gifts, and also look great on notecards and calendars. Have fun with your new hobby!

This article was found by using this forum, where you can found more information on editing photos.

Digital Photo Frame Replacing Gift

As I asked my wife some days ago, what a present will be most suitable for 14th of February which come soon. As she thought, I was thinking she asks about new flash card (as far as I know she wanted something like 1GB SD CARD), but I was wrong.
She told that the best gift for St. Valentines Day will be
CTX MediaView MVCHB010 - digital photo frame. As far as you can see this photo frame is "pretty" expensive gift: I can buy myself a new car for this money. Another minus of typical digital photo frame is that it work only when the computer is on. But this one is completely stand-alone solution - based on 10.4" LCD display from CTX it offer a great color system range.
So, does anyone have any ideas what I can present my wife instead? Feel free to comment this article, how I can save my money. I will be very great full to you.
So far, I decided that 8.5x11 classic travel book from Picaboo will be my hit, but ready to accept other ideas. Do not forget, that Picaboo offer a free shipping (only using coupon code: 1PFGSH-AP which expires February 15, 2007).

Offtopic about Web 2,0

Photo frames

The best thing that visitors are now searching is "photo frames". They typically want to know, howto create beautiful borders around their photos. So, as I found this trick movie I give it to you, my friends!


Photoshop Tutorial - Creating A Border On Your Photo

Let's Remove Pimples

Some time ago I've found a page with the text like:

Photo Restoration services

Typically photo repairs range from $10 to $30


We specialize in digital photo restoration services and old photograph repair of family pictures.
Do you have old photos that are damaged, faded, scratched, large tears, fine cracks, heavy creases, and silverfish damage? Over time, photographs can become stained, cracked, spotted or faded creating unsightly marks which spoil the photograph. Digital photo restoration services clean the photo and draw out the photographs features.
Many photographs may look blurry or fuzzy and beyond repair, this may not be the case! Our photo restoration service depends on state-of-the-art computer systems, the newest versions of specialized and cutting-edge techniques and the widest collection of picture themes and special effects have made it possible to save and restore many treasured family photographs. Damaged photographs can look as good as new, or even better. It is now possible to repair old photographs without damaging the original. A good family snapshot can become a great old photograph by simply fixing a few flaws.

As I so this movie, I understand why the price is so high!


Make Your Picture More Clear And Nice. - video powered by Metacafe

Edges of Photograph

How do you learn to take better pictures? Every time you make an exposure you make choices, either deliberately or accidentally. So your first step is to see your options.

Although it may appear obvious, an awareness of the frame of an image is extremely important. Scan the edges of the frame (edges of the picture) before clicking the shutter. Before you make the exposure, try to visualize the way the scene will look in the finished picture. As you look through the viewfinder, pretend you are looking at a print. But remember you can still change it. You can eliminate a distracting background by changing positions to a different angle, making sure it will be out of focus, and so on. Judicious cropping, can strengthen a picture. If background objects don't add anything to a picture except visual clutter, do what you can to eliminate them or at least minimize their importance. Use the background when it contributes something. Backgrounds can give scale to a photo etc.

Even if the edges are not quitly good, you can easily fix it using Photoshop and the next video lesson.

Change Photograph Edges - video powered by Metacafe

Some tips about lightnings

If you're looking for an exciting and rewarding hobby, taking pictures of thunderstorms just might fit the bill.

The photography aspect of catching lightning on film is extremely simple, and in most cases requires no skill or experience with a camera. But if you're interested in capturing a wide variety of lightning shots with different locations and subjects, photography is the least of the challenges.

Thunderstorms are an elusive phenomenon that rarely cooperate with a photographer. Not only that, but most storms won't come to you - you'll have to go to them. And so lightning photography, as a pasttime, will require a bit of storm chasing - an adventurous hobby in itself that involves forecasting, tracking, and driving to active thunderstorms, among other things. Due to this challenging pursuit, both storm chasing and lightning photography, for those who are so inclined, will likely become a lifelong hobby that will provide years of enjoyment.

It is worth mentioning the obvious that since lightning photography involves being outdoors in and around thunderstorms, it's an activity that can be dangerous if sensible safety considerations are not taken. But the participant who excercises common sense in the hobby will be just as safe as he or she would be collecting stamps.

This page will cover mainly the photographic aspects of catching lightning. A tutorial on storm chasing can get fairly deep, but we'll discuss some of the basics that will help you get started at the end of this article.

The Camera: In order to take photographs of lightning, you'll need to have a camera with a 'bulb' (time exposure) setting. Older model 35mm SLR (Single Lens Reflex) cameras with all-manual settings, such as the Pentax K1000 or Minolta SRT201, are relatively inexpensive (look on eBay) and work very well. These cameras are also more rugged and more resistant to the inevitable splashes of rain than expensive computerized cameras. Also, since your camera settings stay pretty much the same for every lightning photo session, all of the fancy automatic stuff isn't really neccessary.

Cameras used in any type of storm chasing will have to endure harsh conditions and lots of abuse (especially moisture), so you need to think twice before using your $2,000 camera to shoot lightning. Unless you've got a waterproof camera or proper protective gear, you're better off spending the $150-$200 on Ebay on a used manual SLR and lens that can take the heat, and won't be a big loss if it gets ruined. My old Pentax SLR has been dropped, rain-soaked, stressed, dirtied, shaken, baked in summer heat, frozen in winter cold, and taken years of abuse - but still catches lightning. All of the non-digital lightning photos on this site were taken with either the all-manual Pentax K1000 or the similar Minolta SRT201. Once again - your cameras will eventually get drenched a few times if you do this long enough - so plan accordingly.

Again, the Internet is one of the best places to find good deals on used, rugged camera equipment. I bought my Pentax K1000 body, a 28mm wide-angle lens, and a 75mm-205mm zoom lens on Ebay for under $200 total. [Read more...]

But if you cant spent some money to try or you do need your lightning photo urgently, simply create it with PhotoShop using the next video lesson:


Tutorial: Create Lightning In Photoshop - video powered by Metacafe

Adobe Photoshop CS Fast Track

This lesson will give the viewer an understaning of how layers work in Adobe Photoshop CS. training multimedia educational graphics compositing editing edit composite photoshop.

Adobe Photoshop CS Fast Track - video powered by Metacafe

Fast Cross-Fading Images

How To Fade Images Together - video powered by Metacafe

Actual movie on Skin Retouch

Skin Retouch In Photoshop CS2 For Beginners - video powered by Metacafe

Make clones even without Photoshop

Cool video about creating clones in 2 minutes. I was impressed when found it.

INSTANT CLONES - video powered by Metacafe

Registrated @ BlogPhotoDirectory

Just registrated this blog in a catalog of photo-derived sites. Look for my link here. Waiting for thouthands of guests from there, hoping this will help you to find info I haven't jet found.

Portrait Editing

CREATE THIS MAGICAL EFFECT!! - video powered by Metacafe

More on backgrounds

Change The Background Of Ur Picture And Make It Real By Two Simp - video powered by Metacafe

Background Role in Photograph

The background in a photograph is the most important visual element, second to the subject. Hair, make-up, clothes, and the foreground, are worthless without the proper background. Photographers shouldn't ignore these other elements of an image, but they should always be aware of the background and how it will appear in the final photograph.

It is not uncommon to find "pictures" of models in bikinis posed next to a wooden picket fence in someone's backyard. Not only is this unprofessional photography, but a busy background detracts from the model and appear as junk in an image.Don't feel bad if you've done this, many photographers start out this way. If you must shoot a model in a bikini, and there is no proper background, use a plain white background and increase the background light source one f-stop more than the model's main light, and expose for the model.

Make it look like a fashion shoot with a glamour touch.I tend to shoot all my photographs in my natural surroundings, including my back or front yard, living room, bathtub, or any area I feel comfortable in converting to a temporary studio. My location is my studio. Because of this, backgrounds are always the first challenge.
One way to deal with distracting backgrounds is to use a shallow depth of field so the viewer will focus on the model, not the backgraound. In a good photograph, the background is separated from the model, unless there is a reason to give the background as much importance as the model.A photographer can achieve this subject separation with longer lenses that naturally have a narrow angle of view, providing for shallow depth-of-field and slight compression. Another way to subdue the background is to use a neutral density filter to allow a wider aperture for faster film speeds or bright backgrounds. Focusing is critical in these situations with no depth of field--focus sharply on the model's eyes.

If a photograper must shoot a model in a bikini in their backyard without a swimming pool, the photographer should make sure there are no picket fences, telephone poles, or tree branches growing out of the model's head. This is the second most common mistake found in "pictures." This is never found in "photographs." Photographers should always be aware of their background in a scene and know the role the background plays in the finished product--create photographs, not pictures. Prior to a shoot a photographer should pre-visualize the scene including the role the background plays, so the photographer can spend more time on the model's "smile." Photographers should always remember one basic rule, there will always be a background in a photograph and junk in a picture.

Indoor Photo Tricks

This article was created using the article. Feel free to use original source, I just fixed a link.

Indoor Photo Tricks
There's nothing trickier for a digital camera than taking a picture inside a room with a brightly lit window. You have to feel sorry for the camera. It tries hard, to be sure; but digital cameras simply don't have the exposure latitude to properly expose the dark scene in the room and the bright view out the window at the same time. Your camera can give you only one or the other. This week, let's see what we can do about it.

Capturing the Great Outdoors
Suppose you're a real estate agent trying to capture a beautiful view through the kitchen window. You want it to be perfectly clear that there's a majestic mountain view out back. You frame the scene, putting the window in the middle of the viewfinder, and take the shot.
The mountains look great, but the room itself is so dark that it looks like midnight. What went wrong? In a nutshell, the camera's exposure meter correctly exposed the bright outdoors and consequently underexposed the room itself.

Brightening the Room
All is not lost, though. You can brighten the room in an image editor, improving the picture overall. Before you do that, you should isolate the room from the window. Why? Because if you brighten the entire scene, you'll "blow out" the window, ruining the properly exposed mountains.
If you're using Jasc's Paint Shop Pro, find and click the Freehand Selection Tool, which is in the toolbar on the left, in the fifth slot from the top. (Since it shares its cubby with the Selection and Magic Lasso, you may need to pick it from the list. Just click the drop-down arrow on the right side of the cubby and select Freehand Selection Tool.) Set the Selection type to Edge Seeker using the Tool Options palette at the top of the screen, then set the Feather control to 10 pixels.
Next, use the tool to separate the contents of the window from the rest of the image. Select the bright areas inside the window, clicking each time you have to change direction to follow the sill and curtains. You'll create a "fence" around all of the outdoors elements in the scene. Double-click to close your loop. When the window is completely enclosed, choose Selections, Invert from the menu. You've just selected everything except the window--now we can modify the scene without blowing out the mountain view.

Continued on original site.